Pilgrimage On Shikoku Island: Forum
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May 26th, 2017, 01:17am


Pilgrimage On Shikoku Island: Forum

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Total results: 10


 1   General Board / Footwear advice  on: May 24th, 2017, 4:39pm
Started by Janet | Post by Janet
dang that pavement is brutal! it's not just the paved surface, but the slope that it has for runoff that creates uneven wear and can mess up your gait.
It seems most henro's boots/shoes are completely shot by Matsuyama. I met quite a few people who re-shod there. If you have giant galooty gaijin feet, your choices will be extremely limited.

If I ever do it again I am going to ship myself a new pair of boots to have waiting at Sen Guesthouse (I'm guessing they would be willing to hold them for arrival, they are SO helpful in every way! but ask first).

I wore waterproof Keenes: women's Durand mid waterproof. I was happy with them until they were too worn out to continue. Injinji 5 toe sock liners kept me blister free the entire way.
 
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 2   Paid Lodging / Re: Standard facilities in lodging  on: May 24th, 2017, 3:46pm
Started by FlyingDutch | Post by Janet
Minshuku: always a shower and o-furo, always soap and shampoo and towels, almost always a toothbrush, yukata and laundry.
Business hotels: all of the above plus always toothbrush and yukata or pajamas (!).
If you're just planning on staying at minshuku and hotels, you can leave all that stuff out of your pack.
Zenkonyado and tsuyado: variable. BYO everything, just in case.
 
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 3   Sights To See / Re: Sanuki Udon  on: May 24th, 2017, 3:38pm
Started by Shikoku Henro Trail | Post by Janet
Yesssss! I've been home less than a week, and am craving Sanuki udon every day. All those souvenir udon-themed tenugui I hauled back just don't scratch that itch ;)
 
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 4   General Board / Learning Japanese  on: May 24th, 2017, 3:35pm
Started by Janet | Post by Janet
I think the best thing I did to prepare for my henro, more than any mountain training with a pack, more than any online research about the henro, more than any books I read, was learning as much Japanese as I could before I left. It enriched and deepened my experience enormously.
Lucky for me I had huge horrible surgery that postponed my henro by a year, so I had 18 months of off and on study.

It's very difficult to speak Japanese well, but easy to speak it badly! Don't be intimidated! It's a fun interesting language.

I used an online class, Mango Languages (http://mangolanguages.com/index.html) and recommend it, although probably any online class is equally good.
Start now, you will be so glad.
 
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 5   Camping / Asking permission, being a respectful guest  on: May 24th, 2017, 3:21pm
Started by Janet | Post by Janet
I slept rough a few nights (no tent, just stars) and always got permission.
I had conversations with a few other camping henro about getting permission to camp, and speculate that where there are no restrooms, Japanese people would be reluctant to give permission to camp. Think about it, and consider the (extreme to a westerner, normal to a Japanese person) purity rituals around cleanliness in general and toilets in particular. I believe that's rooted in Shinto but that's a whole other conversation.
I recommend scoping out a place with a toilet and then getting permission to camp there.

As for the legendary French "jinja ninjas" who were stealth camping in Shinto shrines every night: yeah, I met those guys. They were filthy (as in smell-them-at-3-meters-filthy), wearing visibly grubby hakui with nothing underneath. Shinto shrines are sacred space and ritually clean (that's why you wash before entering). Using sacred space as a toilet because you happen to be camped there is not OK, even if no one sees you do it.

Remember to bathe and do laundry. It matters to Japanese people, even if they're too polite to say so. And if someone tells you you can probably get away with something because you're a henro or a foreigner, it's probably better not to do that thing.
I only speak rudimentary Japanese, but over and over I heard locals remark on how many foreign henro there are this year. As numbers of us increase, we need to spread the word on being a good guest.

And those Canadian boys who posted their picture on Instagram of themselves dropping their pants at the gate at Ryozenji as a celebration of completion? Don't get me started.

 
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 6   Paid Lodging / Re: New Lodging/Reservation site  on: May 21st, 2017, 02:59am
Started by Janet | Post by Tanuki
Henro house 88 is a new project so that not many henros know about it.
It seems you can relax more than crowded guest house.
They open only Mar-June and Sept-Nov.

It is nice to sleep in Futon/bed once or twice a week even you have a tent. especially on a bad weather.

Hope more henro houses joined the project so that easy to find the reasonable price accomodations to stay just like the albergue in Spain.
 
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 7   Lodging Recommendations / Takamatsu  on: May 16th, 2017, 07:07am
Started by kotoko | Post by Janet
After my boots gave put I basecamped in Takamatsu for the end of my henro and slackpacked every day, returning to base with the excellent public transportation system available. I loved my stay at Kinco Hostel and Cafe. It's labor of love; the owner has put her heart and soul and a lot of creativity into the place (bonus! support a woman-owned business!) The bunks are extra big with lots of headroom and elbow room. There is a great supermarket nearby and a little kitchen at the hostel and you're welcome to enjoy your own food in the beautiful downstairs common space. The bookshelves are filled with a multilingual selection of enticing books on art and design, cities and travel that your welcome to sit and read with the excellent house coffee. There are bikes for rent on site. And the owner and her staff are super kind and friendly. I would stay there again in a heartbeat.
 
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 8   General Board / Re: Question re: weather/month  on: May 14th, 2017, 11:38pm
Started by arjwilson | Post by mpdev
By mid October you should be past the typhoon season and the next 4 or 5 weeks should be ideal walking conditions. It will rain. A full on wet day once a week and a couple of showery days either side. Later in November cold spells of a couple of days will pass over before it becomes just cold. I found early October a lot hotter and humid than expected.

I'm not a weather forecaster and it could be completely different for you. Expect the unexpected and just keep walking regardless. (unless there is a bad typhoon, flood etc) Good luck with it all.
 
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 9   General Board / Re: Question re: weather/month  on: May 14th, 2017, 7:26pm
Started by arjwilson | Post by dayunbao
on Apr 21st, 2017, 4:58pm, arjwilson wrote:
Hi - I'm planning to start walking around Oct. 15, moving clockwise. I normally like to take a rest day once a week (more or less) and am not opposed to the odd onsen day here and there, so I'm budgeting a full two months for the walk.

If that's the case I should be finishing my walk around the middle of December in Kagawa-ken. I can see the historical weather for previous years, but would like to hear from Henro-san who've been walking that time of the year or people who live in the region to get an idea of what to expect, and what clothing to take.

Thanks - Andrew


Me, too. I've been worried about starting too early this fall (like mid-September), and it being too hot. But now, after looking at average temperatures for different months, I'm worried about it being too cold if I start in October or November. I live in the desert, and while it gets hot in the summer (100 + degrees Fahrenheit) and cold in the winter (around freezing), it's always dry. Will October/November be damp? I'm planning on camping, so am thinking of evening temperatures as well as daytime temperatures.
 
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 10   Main Temples / Caves open to the public  on: May 14th, 2017, 7:00pm
Started by dayunbao | Post by dayunbao
Based on what I've seen on this forum, it seems that caves along the henro are either closed right now (the two near temple 24) or are only accessible with a tour guide (cave at bangai 3) . Are there any other caves along the henro that are accessible?
 
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